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Browsing Category Peru

Le Machupichhu : L’ancêtre du Club Med

July 7, 2013 · by JacquesandCaro

Quelle indélicatesse ! Quel mépris pour l’une des plus belles ruines au monde, récemment élevée au rang de merveille du monde…
Mais pourtant oui, je l’affirme, je considère le MachuPicchu comme l’ancêtre du Club Med. Gérard Blitz n’a rien inventé le 27 avril 1950 sur l’ile de Palma de Majorque.

Lama pausing for us

Did you see my face? I’m relax here…

En effet, les rapports sont formels…
Premièrement, le MachuPicchu n’est pas la fameuse cite perdue des Incas
Secondement, le MachuPicchu n’est pas un centre religieux, ni un centre militaire.
Et donc comme les rapports l’indiquent, c’était la résidence secondaire (d’été pourrait-on dire) de l’Inca Pachacutec.

Alors qu’est ce l’Inca ?

En général, on parle (faussement) des Incas.. On peut parler de la dynastie des Incas, comme on parle de la dynastie des pharaons. Mais pour autant, appelle-t-on les égyptiens les pharaons ? Non. Donc de même n’appelons pas tout les gens qui ont vécu à cette époque les Incas, parce que le titre d’Inca est en fait réservé à l’être « suprême » c’est à dire l’empereur.

Le peuple, ou plutôt ses sujets s’appellent donc les hommes andins (en tout cas c’est comme cela que les locaux se présentent), tout comme on appelle les sujets du pharaon les égyptiens.

Un peu d’histoire.

 MachuPicchu a été construit aux alentours de 1440 après Jésus Christ comme résidence secondaire pour l’Inca Pachacutec, loin des tribulations et du bruit de la capitale Cusco (aujourd’hui capitale régionale, mais à l’époque Cusco était la capitale de l’empire Inca).

Le site perché sur un promontoire rocheux coincé entre la montagne Machupicchu et celle de Huyana Pichu se situe à 2438m de hauteur.

Machupicchu site overview

Machupicchu site overview with Huyana Pichhu facing us

Il se divise en deux zones :

  • Une zone agricole matérialisée par les terrasses qui pouvaient nourrir jusqu’à 10000 personnes.
  • Une zone urbaine divisée en plusieurs quartiers :
    • Un quartier sacré où se trouvent les temples notamment celui dédié au dieu Soleil, la divinité la plus importante du panthéon inca. Aujourd’hui, ce quartier aurait été labellisé de cinq tridents club med.
    • Un quartier populaire. Celui-ci n’aurait été gratifié, je pense, que de deux trident. Premier prix, entrée de gamme, mais je pense qu’à l’époque cela devait déjà valoir le coup..
    • Un quartier pour nobles et ecclésiastiques. Pas un quartier à cinq mais plutôt entre trois et quatre tridents. Le nombre de tridents dépendrait surement de la localisation de la maison par rapport au temple du soleil, de le présence de jardins privés ainsi que de la vue sur la vallée.
180 degrees of Machupicchu site and the valleys around

180 degrees of Machupicchu site and the valley around

Ce sont donc entre 300 et 1000 habitants qui appartiennent à l’élite qui vivent sur place dans la cour de l’Inca. On retrouve aussi des tailleurs de pierre et de métaux qui continuent à embellir le site. Les travaux agricoles sont effectués par des mitmaqkuna qui venaient des différents provinces de l’empire (la plupart du temps, ils y ont été amenés de force, tout comme feront plus tard les espagnols avec les populations conquises – ces derniers n’ont donc rien inventé).

L’Inca devait surtout en profiter pour recevoir, jouer dans les jardins privés, boire, se relaxer, aller prier, bref, une vie comparable à quiconque irait passer une semaine ou deux au club Med à Djerba ou en Tunisie… La vue y est superbe, le temps clair et ensoleillé (sauf entre novembre et mars), et beaucoup moins froid que la capitale Cusco, que demander de plus ?

Tout comme le club Med qui est en perte de vitesse après le décès de son créateur, le MachuPicchu est au fur et à mesure abandonné jusqu’à que les espagnols arrivent. En effet après la mort de l’Inca Pachacutec, le site privé tombe en quelque sorte dans le domaine public et ses rentes ne servent qu’à financer le culte du défunt roi. C’est à ce moment là que la ville perd de son importance

Qui a découvert le site ?

Scientifiquement par Hiram Bingham (un professeur nord-americain… on se croirait presque dans la saga Indiana Jones) en 1911. Mais au fur et à mesure on apprend que d’autres chercheurs/archéologues l’on visité bien avant lui. En effet en 2008 est avancé une hypothèse selon laquelle un chercheur de mines allemand l’aurait visite en 1860 soit bien longtemps avant 1911. Mais Hiram Bingham a au moins le mérite d’avoir été le premier à reconnaître l’importance des ruines, et de divulguer les résultats de ses fouilles archéologiques.

Pourtant on sent au Pérou une volonté de minimiser cette découverte scientifique de 1911 en maximisant le fait que des paysans locaux vivaient non loin des ruines et que c’est grâce notamment à l’un d’entre eux que le site a été « scientifiquement » découvert.

La machine touristique

Bref, depuis cette découverte « scientifique » le MachuPicchu est sans conteste la destination touristique la plus visitée du Pérou, et on s’en rend bien compte quand on arrive à la caisse pour payer…

Jacques and a lama
Jacques and a lama
Caroline and her friend watching the site early morning
Caroline and her friend watching the site early morning
The lama and caroline pausing
The lama and caroline pausing
Caroline and her new friends. Lamas style
Caroline and her new friends. Lamas style
Jacques jumping in front of Huyana Picchu
Jacques jumping in front of Huyana Picchu
Caroline jumping again
Caroline jumping again

Pour augmenter l’attrait de ces ruines, le gouvernement péruvien a décider de limiter le nombrer journalier de visiteurs.. Pour éviter les dommages dit-on… Je pense plutôt à un coup de pub pour renforcer l’image d’exclusivité du site, qui en passant, est vraiment magnifique et vaut le détour.

Mais on y sent quand même la machine touristique bien rodée…

Les bus qui vous y emmènent vous couteront pas moins de 10$ (juste pour l’aller, comptez autant pour redescendre) et l’entrée est fixée au prix de 53$. Ne partez donc pas sans sous au Pérou, le pays de l’oncle Picsou.

Sur votre ticket, vous y verrez tout une liste de recommandations (ne pas venir avec de l’eau en bouteille, pas de nourriture, pas de sac à dos ayant une contenance supérieure à 20 litres, etc…) qui ne servent à rien… Tout le monde mange sur place, boit, vient avec des sacs de 30 ou 40 Litres et personne ne dit rien.

Par contre, ce qui n’est pas écrit est qu’il faut venir avec son passeport pour bien vérifier que le nom sur le ticket est bien le votre… Ou sinon, on ne rentre pas (nous l’avons testé pour vous…)

Alors qu’avons nous fait sur place ?

Comme la plupart des gens (et ce que nous vous conseillons fortement), nous avons pris le bus pour monter (donc 10$) depuis Aguas Caliente jusqu’à l’entrée du site.

Us from the traditional photo shot point of Machupicchu site

Us from the traditional photo shot point of Machupicchu site

Là, nous avions une guide (encore une autre recommandation) qui nous a fait un tour de 6 heure du matin jusqu’à 8h30…

Je recommande ici comme dans tous les autres sites historiques du Pérou de le faire avec un guide, sans quoi vous n’y verrez que des tas de pierres insignifiants… Enfin presque.

Caroline at one of many windows that we can count on this site
Caroline at one of many windows that we can count on this site
Another machupicchu site view point with more flora around
Another machupicchu site view point with more flora around
Jacques in front of Huyana Picchu
Jacques in front of Huyana Picchu
From Machupicchu site, it goes down quite steeply to the river.
From Machupicchu site, it goes down quite steeply to the river.
Where do you go from there?
Where do you go from there?
Ruins and view: the combination of Machupicchu
Ruins and view: the combination of Machupicchu
The ceremonial rock which points the same way than the mountain in the background
The ceremonial rock which points the same way than the mountain in the background
Jacques at the astronomical observatory
Jacques at the astronomical observatory
A small rock - shaped by mother nature - represents Machupicchu in a miniature.
A small rock – shaped by mother nature – represents Machupicchu in a miniature.
Looking through the window
Looking through the window
Jacques above the valley we walked the day before
Jacques above the valley we walked the day before
Caroline overlooking the site from the traditional view point
Caroline overlooking the site from the traditional view point
The main square on the left, the group of the three doorways on the right and Huyana Pichu on the background
The main square on the left, the group of the three doorways on the right and Huyana Pichu on the background
Jacques overlooking the site from the traditional view point
Jacques overlooking the site from the traditional view point

En parlant de tas de pierres, la chose marrante à noter est que vous pouvez aussi écouter ce que disent les autres guides (quand vous faites votre tour) … Et là l’horreur pour moi, petit touriste féru de vieilles pierres… quand votre guide dit blanc, vous pouvez entendre un autre guide juste à côté dire noir à ses clients….qui donc croire ?

“Le meilleur exemple est celui du temple principal du site (situé dans la zone sacré) Notre guide nous dit que une partie s’est effondrée à cause du nombre trop élevé de touristes qui viennent visiter le site, tandis qu’un autre guide affirme que cela a été causé par un tremblement de terre.

Bref, difficile de savoir… Sauf que quand nous sommes allés visiter le musée MC de la Casa Concha, nous pouvions voir la photo de Hiram Bingham posant à côté de ce même temple en 1911.. et alors ? Et alors les pierres sont telles qu’elles le sont aujourd’hui.

Et en se renseignant un peu plus, on apprend que ce temple était en cours de construction vers 1533 quand les espagnols sont arrivés. Et donc qu’il n’avait pas été encore renforcé comme les autres constructions tout comme le système de drainage de l’eau n’avait pas été terminé. Résultat, les infiltration d’eau ont creusé la terre sous le mur affaibli et provoqué l’affaissement de certaines pierres.. ”

Apres notre visite guidée (qui fut malgré tout très informative) nous avons escaladé la montagne Machupicchu (qui signifie la montagne vieille) par opposition à Huyana Picchu qui signifie la montagne jeune.

In the background, Machupicchu mountain, then the eastern agricultural sector and at the front the stone reserve to build more...

In the background, Machupicchu mountain, then the eastern agricultural sector and at the front the stone reserve to build more…

Huyana picchu étant limité à 400 personnes par jour et étant plein pour les 10 prochains jours, nous nous sommes donc rabattus sur sa grande sœur.

Pour monter prévoyez 1h30 de marche… ça monte sec.

View of the steps leading to Machupicchu mountain
View of the steps leading to Machupicchu mountain
Going up to Machupicchu mountains, there is a few steps to climb, some of them are quite tall
Going up to Machupicchu mountains, there is a few steps to climb, some of them are quite tall
Steps going down back to the site
Steps going down back to the site

Mais quel spectacle d’en haut, le site de Machupicchu, la vallée par laquelle nous sommes venus et Agua Calientes… Magnifique.

Both of us from the top of Machupicchu mountain

Both of us from the top of Machupicchu mountain

A noter que la plupart des villes qui ont été créés par la civilisation Inca ont une forme particulière. Cusco a la forme d’un puma, Machucpicchu celle d’un condor. Mais cette forme ne peut se voir que depuis Huyana Picchu…

Machupicchu site and Huyana Pichu surrounded by impressive mountains and flora
Machupicchu site and Huyana Pichu surrounded by impressive mountains and flora
Us at the top of Machupicchu mountain at 3,082m
Us at the top of Machupicchu mountain at 3,082m
Overview onto the valley from the top of Machupicchu mountain
Overview onto the valley from the top of Machupicchu mountain
Machupicchu site half way on the way to Machupicchu mountain
Machupicchu site half way on the way to Machupicchu mountain
View onto the Machupicchu valley from the top of MP mountain
View onto the Machupicchu valley from the top of MP mountain

Donc si vous voulez vraiment la gravir, réservez votre billet longtemps à l’avance.

La lumière de fin d’après-midi est propice aux photos.

Après notre grimpette, nous sommes restés sur Machupicchu jusque sur les coups de 17h… A 11h, tous les jeunes sans sous (les backpackers comme nous) partent reprendre le train ou surtout le bus qui les attend un peu plus loin dans la vallée) donc le site se vide considérablement. Et vers 14 heures, ce sont les groupes organisés qui débarquent avec une clientèle nettement moins jeune.

The main square on the left, the group of the three doorways on the right and Huyana Pichu on the background
The main square on the left, the group of the three doorways on the right and Huyana Pichu on the background
4pm, the light is becoming better for shooting, although the clouds sometimes hide the sun
4pm, the light is becoming better for shooting, although the clouds sometimes hide the sun
They keep this tree up at this is the last one that preserved Machupicchu for years before it discovery in 1911
They keep this tree up at this is the last one that preserved Machupicchu for years before it discovery in 1911
Huyana Picchu and the main square
Huyana Picchu and the main square

Le matin pour les jeunes, l’aprem pour les vieux dirait-on… (sans être irrespectueux…)

Aussi l’après midi, la lumière de fin de journée est plus propice aux jolies photos (quoique les nôtres sont pas terribles, c’était un peu couvert). Un autre conseil finalement serait de passer la journée entière sur le site. De 6 heures du matin pour voir le lever du soleil jusqu’à 17hr/18hr pour le coucher du soleil et sa lumière beaucoup plus chaude.

The ruins on the afternoon light

The ruins on the afternoon light

Des techniques de constructions impressionnantes

Le MachuPicchu, c’est aussi des techniques de constructions impressionnantes…

Ces pierres scellées sans joints et taillées au millimètre près, résistent à tout. Et en 1533, le monde occidental n’arrivait pas à mieux faire que cela.

Les constructions sont typiques du monde Inca c’est à dire avec une base sensiblement plus grande que la partie supérieure ce qui leur confèrent une bonne résistance sismique.

Construction like this one, with very fine assembly of stones shows sacred part of the city such as temple (here entrance to the temple of Sun)
Construction like this one, with very fine assembly of stones shows sacred part of the city such as temple (here entrance to the temple of Sun)
The water mirrors
The water mirrors
Inside the Inca house, i.e. the private residence for the chef
Inside the Inca house, i.e. the private residence for the chef
Inside Machupicchu ruins
Inside Machupicchu ruins
Machupicchu was built with a very ingenious system of drain to bring water to everyone and never overflowing
Machupicchu was built with a very ingenious system of drain to bring water to everyone and never overflowing
Stone wall assembled without concrete in between. All done by hand
Stone wall assembled without concrete in between. All done by hand
Base of the temple of the sun. As it is a sacred place, all the stone are assembled without concrete or joints and with a perfect finish
Base of the temple of the sun. As it is a sacred place, all the stone are assembled without concrete or joints and with a perfect finish

Le meilleur exemple est en fait à Cusco, ou l’on peut comparer les méthodes Incas et occidentales sur les églises qu’ont bâties les espagnols sur les fondations incas.

En bas les fondations Inca aux pierres taillées au millimètre près sans ciment entre elles, finalement très esthétiques. Au dessus d’elles, les pierres des églises espagnoles taillées plus grossièrement, et dont l’emploi de ciment jure avec la finesse et l’élégance de celles situées à quelques centimètres en dessous.

Le second exemple réside dans le fait que les seuls bâtiment qui ont résisté aux différents tremblements de terre de sont ceux qui étaient construit sur les fondations des temples incas. Les autres sont tombés comme des châteaux de cartes.

La visite de MP tout comme des autres sites de la vallée sacrée autour de Cusco permet de réaliser à quel point la civilisation inca était avancée dans l’utilisation de la position du soleil et de la lune pour prédire les saisons et les solstices et donc savoir quelle plante il fallait cultiver au bon moment.

Drawing explaining how they use the shadow of the sun to determine the solstice

Drawing explaining how they use the shadow of the sun to determine the solstice

Voilà pour Machupicchu, je vous dis à bientôt pour la suite.

We were at Machupicchu
We were at Machupicchu
Yeah, we were at Machupicchu
Yeah, we were at Machupicchu
Us just arrived on site at 6am, well woken up...
Us just arrived on site at 6am, well woken up…

Si vous voulez un autre point de vue sur Machupicchu, je vous conseille d’aller voir le post de Lary, un canadien qui l’a visité récemment. Son article est ici, Hiking Vacation to Machu Picchu | Affordable Adventuret travel qui est en anglais.

A très bientôt.

Jacques&Caro.

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Machupichhu : It was an holiday resort!

July 7, 2013 · by JacquesandCaro

How dare you ? How can you compare these beautiful ruins to an holiday resort ? A site that has been recently voted as one of the new 7 Wonders of the world.

But I still maintain my thoughts.

Lama pausing for us

Did you see my face? I’m relax here…

Indeed, reports are formal :

Firstly, Machupicchu was not the famous Inca lost city
Secondly, it was neither a religious centre nor a military centre.
But just the Inca Pachacutec residence. (probably summer residence)

A bit of history

 MachuPicchu has been built around 1440 for the Inca Pachacutec, the Inca emperor. Probably a residence for him to rest away from the noise and political issues he had to deal with in Cusco, the inca empire capital (and today the capital of the region)

Le site is located at 2,438m sitting on a cliff and locked between two mountains : Machupicchu mountain and Huyana Picchu.

Machupicchu site overview

Machupicchu site overview with Huyana Pichhu facing us

It is divided into two main areas :

  • An farming area made of terraces that could feed up to 10,000 people.
  • An urban area itself divided in sub-areas :
    • A holly area where are located the temples, mainly the one dedicated to the god Sun.
    • A popular area for the normal people (stone and metal workers)
    • An area restricted only to the higher and religious class.
180 degrees of Machupicchu site and the valleys around

180 degrees of Machupicchu site and the valley around

The city counted around 300 to 1000 inhabitants that most of them belong to the high class. All of them to entertain or be around the emperor. Only the farmers were « normal » people that were coming from the whole empire (usually brought by force to work in a specific area, like the spanish will do a few years later)

The Inca , I guess use to have a good life there. Receive people, rest, drink, play in the private garden, attend some religious ceremonies. Almost the same life you would have when you book for a week or two into a resort in Djerba, Cancun or somewhere funky in the world.

The view is amazing, the weather clear and sunny (except between November to March), less cold than Cusco.. What’s else ?

But at the death of the Inca Pachacutec, the city started to loose of its influence. The profit made were used only to finance the cult of the Dead emperor. Then the spanish arrived and the site got abandonned.

Who discovered the site ?

Scientifically talking, it was Hiram Bingham (an archeologist professor North American.. we could feel being in the Indiana Jones saga) who di dit in 1911.

But when you start to dig a bit more, you find out that potentially a german mine-hunter would have visited the site in 1860. I guess Hiram has the merit to recognise the importance of the site and to publish the results he found out during its excavations.

However in Peru, we can feel that the authorites tries to minimize this discovery by empashing the fact that this is only a scientific discovery and that local people were already living close to the site by the time Hiram got there. Even one of them guided him in the jungle to reach the site.

The tourism factory

Since this scientific discovery, Machupicchu is one of the most visited attractions in Peru… and we realize it when we need to pay the entrance fees.

Jacques and a lama
Jacques and a lama
Caroline and her friend watching the site early morning
Caroline and her friend watching the site early morning
The lama and caroline pausing
The lama and caroline pausing
Caroline and her new friends. Lamas style
Caroline and her new friends. Lamas style
Jacques jumping in front of Huyana Picchu
Jacques jumping in front of Huyana Picchu
Caroline jumping again
Caroline jumping again

On top of that, to maybe increase the atractivity of the site, the total number of daily visitors are now limited (officially because too many visitors would damage the site)… Although the site is really astonishing and is worth paying the fees.

But you still can see the tourism attractions and structure well developed.

The buses that brings you up cost not less than 10$ (and you need to pay again to go down) and the entrance fee is fixed at 53$…

On your ticket you will see a list of recommendations such as do not bring water in plastic bottle, do not bring food, the bag volume cannot exceed 20 litres, etc.. But most of it are useless as you can see everyone eating on site, drinking in a plastic bottle and having a 30 Litres backpack. No one says anything.

One thing you need to know (and that is not written on the ticket) is to bring your passport to check your name is the same than the one on the ticket.. (in case you stole it..)

So what have we done over there ?

 As most of people, we took the bus up from Aguas Calientes to the site entrance. It is a good option if you plan to stay the whole day and climb one of the mountain (the old one or the Young one)

Us from the traditional photo shot point of Machupicchu site

Us from the traditional photo shot point of Machupicchu site

There, we had a guided tour from 6 am to 8.30am which is something I definitly recommend otherwise you will just see some pieces of broken stones without understanding what is behind it.

Caroline at one of many windows that we can count on this site
Caroline at one of many windows that we can count on this site
Another machupicchu site view point with more flora around
Another machupicchu site view point with more flora around
Jacques in front of Huyana Picchu
Jacques in front of Huyana Picchu
From Machupicchu site, it goes down quite steeply to the river.
From Machupicchu site, it goes down quite steeply to the river.
Where do you go from there?
Where do you go from there?
Ruins and view: the combination of Machupicchu
Ruins and view: the combination of Machupicchu
The ceremonial rock which points the same way than the mountain in the background
The ceremonial rock which points the same way than the mountain in the background
Jacques at the astronomical observatory
Jacques at the astronomical observatory
A small rock - shaped by mother nature - represents Machupicchu in a miniature.
A small rock – shaped by mother nature – represents Machupicchu in a miniature.
Looking through the window
Looking through the window
Jacques above the valley we walked the day before
Jacques above the valley we walked the day before
Caroline overlooking the site from the traditional view point
Caroline overlooking the site from the traditional view point
The main square on the left, the group of the three doorways on the right and Huyana Pichu on the background
The main square on the left, the group of the three doorways on the right and Huyana Pichu on the background
Jacques overlooking the site from the traditional view point
Jacques overlooking the site from the traditional view point

Talking about guide, the funny thing is all of them go with their own little story. When we were at the main temple square, a part of the main temple lowered down. When our guide was telling us white, another guide we could listen on our side was saying black to his customers. Who should we believe ?

Our guide was saying that the wall lowered down because too many visitors were coming to the site and the combination of their weight and vibrations caused by their steps caused the temple right side to slowly lower down. While the other guide was saying that an earthquake were the main cause…

But when we research about this temple, we found out at the Machupicchu musuem Casa de la Concha in Cusco a picture of Hiram Bingham posing on the side of the temple which state is the same than today… And the main reason behind this, is the temple construction was not achieved when Machupicchu has been abandonned when the spanish arrived. The building was not reinforced yet as the other Inca constructions and the effect of the rain was quicker to damage it.

After our guided visited (which was anyway very interesting) we climbed up Machupicchu mountain (which means the old mountain, by opposition to Huyana Pichhu which is the Young mountain).

In the background, Machupicchu mountain, then the eastern agricultural sector and at the front the stone reserve to build more...

In the background, Machupicchu mountain, then the eastern agricultural sector and at the front the stone reserve to build more…

Huyana Picchu being limited to 400 people per day, we had to wait up to 10 days to buy our ticket. So we decided to book for the site entrance plus the mountain access for 53$.

Plan for 1 hour and half to get up there, it is quite steeply.

View of the steps leading to Machupicchu mountain
View of the steps leading to Machupicchu mountain
Going up to Machupicchu mountains, there is a few steps to climb, some of them are quite tall
Going up to Machupicchu mountains, there is a few steps to climb, some of them are quite tall
Steps going down back to the site
Steps going down back to the site

But from the top the view is really astonishing, the site is quite far and you can overview the whole valley with the Vilcanota-Urubamba river 1,300m down.

Both of us from the top of Machupicchu mountain

Both of us from the top of Machupicchu mountain

From this mountain, you cannot see the animal shape that Machupicchu would have been built by the Incas : a condor. Indeed all the cities built by the Incas follow a particular shape : a Puma for Cusco or a corn ear for Ollantaytambo in the sacred valley.

But to see the condor of Machupicchu, you will have to climb Huyana Pichu.

Machupicchu site and Huyana Pichu surrounded by impressive mountains and flora
Machupicchu site and Huyana Pichu surrounded by impressive mountains and flora
Us at the top of Machupicchu mountain at 3,082m
Us at the top of Machupicchu mountain at 3,082m
Overview onto the valley from the top of Machupicchu mountain
Overview onto the valley from the top of Machupicchu mountain
Machupicchu site half way on the way to Machupicchu mountain
Machupicchu site half way on the way to Machupicchu mountain
View onto the Machupicchu valley from the top of MP mountain
View onto the Machupicchu valley from the top of MP mountain

So my advise would be to purchase your ticket pretty early if you want to climb it and see the condor..

The end of afternoon light gives you nice and warm colour for your pictures of the site.

After we climb up the machupicchu mountain we stay on the site until 5pm.

Indeed, at 11am, all the backpackers are leaving as they need to catch their bus back to Cusco. But then around 2pm, all the organized tour for people a bit older are entering the site. Some of them are coming for two days on the row but only the afternoon.

The main square on the left, the group of the three doorways on the right and Huyana Pichu on the background
The main square on the left, the group of the three doorways on the right and Huyana Pichu on the background
4pm, the light is becoming better for shooting, although the clouds sometimes hide the sun
4pm, the light is becoming better for shooting, although the clouds sometimes hide the sun
They keep this tree up at this is the last one that preserved Machupicchu for years before it discovery in 1911
They keep this tree up at this is the last one that preserved Machupicchu for years before it discovery in 1911
Huyana Picchu and the main square
Huyana Picchu and the main square

The site is still less busy with people and combined with the warm color of the afternoon sunset, we can get some nice shoot. We were not so lucky as the weather was a bit cloudy.

So my advise would be to spend the whole day on site to see both sunrise and sunset. If you are not on a tight budget, a day with a guide and then a day by yourself to walk around and take pictures.

The ruins on the afternoon light

The ruins on the afternoon light

Impressive building techniques.

Machupicchu, like any other Inca constructions featured some really impressive techniques when you think what was available at this time.

All the holly places such as the temple of sun are built with stones cut with a razor blade. The bottom of the buildings are slightly larger than the top part to allow them to better resist to earthquakes. Some of the stone used were taken from the quarry on site while other were brought from remote sites.

Construction like this one, with very fine assembly of stones shows sacred part of the city such as temple (here entrance to the temple of Sun)
Construction like this one, with very fine assembly of stones shows sacred part of the city such as temple (here entrance to the temple of Sun)
The water mirrors
The water mirrors
Inside the Inca house, i.e. the private residence for the chef
Inside the Inca house, i.e. the private residence for the chef
Inside Machupicchu ruins
Inside Machupicchu ruins
Machupicchu was built with a very ingenious system of drain to bring water to everyone and never overflowing
Machupicchu was built with a very ingenious system of drain to bring water to everyone and never overflowing
Stone wall assembled without concrete in between. All done by hand
Stone wall assembled without concrete in between. All done by hand
Base of the temple of the sun. As it is a sacred place, all the stone are assembled without concrete or joints and with a perfect finish
Base of the temple of the sun. As it is a sacred place, all the stone are assembled without concrete or joints and with a perfect finish

While visiting Machupicchu (with a guide), you can easily realise how much the Incas used the star and the sun to predict the seasons of the year and so what to farm. The drawing below illustrates it.

Drawing explaining how they use the shadow of the sun to determine the solstice

Drawing explaining how they use the shadow of the sun to determine the solstice

That is it for Machupicchu, we will talk soon from some other Inca sites.

We were at Machupicchu
We were at Machupicchu
Yeah, we were at Machupicchu
Yeah, we were at Machupicchu
Us just arrived on site at 6am, well woken up...
Us just arrived on site at 6am, well woken up…

Another article I recommend is Hiking Vacation to Machu Picchu | Affordable Adventure travel. Written by Lary from Canada, it offers a different perspective on Machu Picchu. His blog as well is quite interesting with a lot of advise.

Blog you soon,

Jacques&Caro.

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How to go to Machupicchu without blowing your budget?

July 5, 2013 · by JacquesandCaro

How to reach Machupicchu without blowing your budget is a question many travellers ask themselves. And to be honest, before doing it, we had the same question. Here some explanations.

How to reach Aguas Calientes (Machupicchu village) from Cusco:

From Cusco, many options are available to reach Machupicchu village :

– The first one, that I would name Classic is as well the most expensive one. For 120$ (including the return) you leave Cusco and reach Aguas Calientes (what we call Machupicchu village) by train within 5 hours. Simple, direct and efficient.
– The second option (more fun) is to travel by mini-van.

The journey will take you through different valleys, you even go through a pass of Abra Sijlak asa at 4,300m…The road is longer (8 hours of driving) but the cost is much more less as only 80 Soles (or 30$) are necessary for it.

Around 8am of the morning, you leave Cusco and drive until Hydroelectrica. You go up, then through the pass at 4,300m, go down, then go accross some roadworks (which close the road during some hours), then drive on a dirt road for a few hours and finally arrive around 4pm at Hydroelectrica.

Below some pictures of our journey:

Leaving Cusco and overlooking the mountain range we will have to cross to reach Machupicchu by car.
Leaving Cusco and overlooking the mountain range we will have to cross to reach Machupicchu by car.
You need to go through a pass over 4000m
You need to go through a pass over 4000m
Traditional ceremony in Santa Theresa during the lunch break… almost arrived to Hydrauelectrica
Traditional ceremony in Santa Theresa during the lunch break… almost arrived to Hydrauelectrica
Is it the safest bridge to cross?
Is it the safest bridge to cross?
It looks like this is a deadly road
It looks like this is a deadly road
Coming across some big machines
Coming across some big machines

There, you still have 2 hours and half of walk along the railway until Agua Calientes.

How to protect yourself from the sun

How to protect yourself from the sun

Or if you are really tired (and want to arrive on time before the night) you can take the train for 10$.

If you can afford you can take the train from 120$ return

If you can afford you can take the train from 120$ return

In all the case, train or walk, the path is the same in the valley along the Vilcanota-Urubamba river just below Machupicchu site we cannot really see.

Walking along the railway, Machupicchu site is on our left side..

Walking along the railway, Machupicchu site is on our left side..

To return to Cusco, this is the same thing, however you need to leave Hydroelectrica by 2pm.

So most of the people on budget (backpacker like us) do it over two days :

-Day 1 : Journey from Cusco to Aguas Calientes
-Day 2 : Wake-up at 5am (or earlier if you going up walking) to go up to Machupicchu. At 11am, you need to leave the site to be sure you are at 2pm at Hydroelectrica to catch your minivan. And finally arrive at 10pm at Cusco.

Here the google map showing the different options:

In red, the bus journey from Cusco to Hydroeletrica

In purple, the train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes

In Green the parts you need to walk

and the red in Zigzag is the portion you can do by bus for 10$ to walk up to Machu picchu from Aguas Calientes.

 

Where to sleep in Aguas Calientes?

At Aguas Calientes, there is nothing to see really, There is all types of hotel for all different budget. We found one for 12 Soles per night quite clean. Some travel agencies will ask you if they can book yours but usually this means that they take a commission on the top of the room price, and this is for you to pay.

There is an option to camp, but it is far way from the village and it is recommended only if you plan to go up walking to Machupicchu (otherwise you will have to walk back to Agua Calientes to take the bus)

View onto Aguas Calientes

View onto Aguas Calientes

How to reach Machupicchu site from Aguas Calientes?

Once at Agua Calientes (or Machupicchu village) two options are available to reach the site :

Caroline is driving the bus on the way up to MachuPicchu: 10$

Caroline is driving the bus on the way up to MachuPicchu: 10$

– By bus. You can catch it in the center of the town. But for 10$, you have only one way. Which means that you will have to pay the same amount to go down. It takes around 30min to reach the site. If you want to arrive before the doors open at 6.00am (for the sunset) you will need to start to queue from 5am in town… (Everyone wants to do like you) Some streets vendors sell hot coffee and food while you are waiting. A good option if you didn’t have breakfast before leaving your hotel or you haven’t prepared anything for your lunch.

– The second option is to walk up following the path that Hiram Birgham would have taken in 1911 prior the discovery of Machupicchu. While the bus goes up in Zigzag, the walking path goes straight up. It usually takes around 1 hour to go up. And half an hour to go down. Some people will tell you it takes 30 minutes to go up and 20 minutes to go down, but it is usually because they run not walk

What we recommend you :

–  Day 1 : Journey from Cusco to Agua Calientes by minibus

–  Day 2 : Whole day to visit Machupicchu, climb Machupicchu mountain or Huyana Picchu. Go up by bus and go down walking

– Day 3 : Leave Aguas Calientes to walk to Hydroelectrica around 8/9am. Don’t bother going to the hotspring (10 Soles the ticket) in Aguas Calientes. Catch a taxi at Hydroelectrica (there are always plenty waiting) to reach Santa Theresa Hot Springs. Taxi ride is 5 soles and entrance to the hot spring is 5 soles. Taxi back from the hot spring to santa Theresa to wait for your minivan to collect you at 2.30pm on the way back to Cusco or if you are keen you can walk back to Santa Theresa (count on half to a full hour)

If you decide to follow this plan, make sure you have talked with the travel agency you book your journey so they don’t wait for you at Hydroelectrica while you are expecting them at Santa Theresa.

 

Relaxing at Saint Theresa hot springs
Relaxing at Saint Theresa hot springs
Us at Saint Theresa hot spring, much better than the aguas calientes ones
Us at Saint Theresa hot spring, much better than the aguas calientes ones
On the way down to Cusco for the first part of the travel.. Taxi mode at the back for Caro
On the way down to Cusco for the first part of the travel.. Taxi mode at the back for Caro

Where to book?

The cheap option at 80 Soles needs to be booked through any agencies you can find in Cusco (a few of them are not far from Loki backpacker in Cusco). However, you can purchase your own train ticket at the train station.

That is it. You know everything to go to Machupicchu although we haven’t talked to the different options available if you want to do it trekking. (Jungle trail or Inca trail). The last thing left is to discover it, and this will be the next post to be published on jacquesandcaro.me. If you have any comments or question, don’t hesitate to contact us (email or leave a comment)

We are finally here

We are finally here

Blog you soon,

Jacques&Caro

Comment rejoindre Machupicchu sans dépasser son budget ?

July 5, 2013 · by JacquesandCaro

Comment rejoindre Machupicchu sans casser son budget est la question de beaucoup de voyageurs. Et il faut dire qu’avant de le faire, c’était un peu une nébuleuse pour nous. Voilà donc quelques explications.

Rejoindre Aguas Calientes (Machupicchu village) depuis Cusco

Depuis Cusco, plusieurs options sont possibles pour rejoindre Machupicchu village.

– La première, la classique mais aussi la plus chère consiste à prendre le train qui vous emmène directement jusqu’à Aguas Calientes. Il vous en coutera 120$ aller retour, et le voyage dure en général 5 heures. Simple, efficace et direct.

– La seconde option, celle que nous avons choisie (plus fun) consiste à y aller en mini-bus en prenant différentes vallées et notamment en passant par le col de Abra Sijlak asa à 4300m.

La route est beaucoup plus longue mais le trajet est beaucoup moins cher. Il vous en coutera 80 Soles aller retour soit 30$.

Vers 8h du matin, nous sommes partis de Cusco et roulons jusqu’à Hydroelectrica. Nous sommes passés par le Col à 4,300m, sommes redescendus, passés par la partie en travaux où la route n’est ouverte qu’à certaines heures de la journée. Nous avons ensuite quitté la route goudronnée pour prendre la piste pendant quelques heures et enfin arriver à l’usine hydroélectrique en construction sur les coups de 16h.

Quelques photos du périple ci-dessous:

Leaving Cusco and overlooking the mountain range we will have to cross to reach Machupicchu by car.
Leaving Cusco and overlooking the mountain range we will have to cross to reach Machupicchu by car.
You need to go through a pass over 4000m
You need to go through a pass over 4000m
Traditional ceremony in Santa Theresa during the lunch break… almost arrived to Hydrauelectrica
Traditional ceremony in Santa Theresa during the lunch break… almost arrived to Hydrauelectrica
Is it the safest bridge to cross?
Is it the safest bridge to cross?
It looks like this is a deadly road
It looks like this is a deadly road
Coming across some big machines
Coming across some big machines

De là, nous avons marché en longeant une voie ferrée qui rejoint Aguas Calientes. 2h30 de marche sur terrain plat sont nécessaires pour arriver à bon port.

How to protect yourself from the sun

How to protect yourself from the sun

Si les quelques 8 heures de minibus vous ont extenués, vous avez l’option de prendre le train depuis Hydroelectrica jusqu’à Aguas Calientes pour 10$.

If you can afford you can take the train from 120$ return

If you can afford you can take the train from 120$ return

Dans tous les cas le chemin est le même, il est au fond de la vallée que surplombe le Machupicchu tout en longeant la rivière Vilcanota-Urubamba .

Walking along the railway, Machupicchu site is on our left side..

Walking along the railway, Machupicchu site is on our left side..

Le retour est la même chose avec en général un départ vers 14h d’Hydroelectrica. Du coup, la plupart des backpackers font Machupicchu sur 2 jours :

– Jour 1 : Départ de Cusco pour rejoindre Aguas Calientes

– Jour 2 : Levé 5h15 (ou plus tôt si vous montez à pied) pour monter au Machupicchu. Sur les coups de 11h, descente de Machupicchu pour commencer la marche d’Aguas Calientes jusqu’à Hydroelectrica. Puis rejoindre Cusco en minibus avec une arrivée vers 22h.. (en raison des travaux sur la route).

Malheureusement cet itinéraire sur 2 jours ne laisse pas beaucoup de temps pour bien visiter et comprendre le site à moins que vous ne vouliez juste postez une photo sur votre compte Facebook.

Ci-dessous la carte google montrant les différentes options pour rejoindre Aguas Calientes et le site.

En rouge, notre trajet en bus à 80 Soles, en mauve le trajet en train (Aller-retour à 120$), en vert la partie faite en marchant, et finalement la partie en rouge en zigzag est ce que vous monterez en bus depuis Aguas Calientes pour rejoindre le site pour 10$ (Aller simple)

Où loger sur Aguas Calientes?

Sur Aguas Calientes, il existe toutes sortes d’hôtels et il est possible de trouver le sien sans passer par une agence. Ainsi nous en avons trouvé un, très propre pour 12 Soles par nuit. Nous vous conseillons de ne pas passer par une agence étant donné qu’ils prendront leur commission dessus et vous la feront payer (elles sont nombreuses à proposer un package)

Il y a aussi une option camping juste en dessous du Machupicchu, mais je vous la conseille seulement si vous désirez monter à pied jusqu’au site. En effet le site se trouve à 10 min/15 min à pied d’Aguas Calientes (il n’y a pas de taxi) sur la route qui monte au site. Donc si vous voulez prendre le bus tôt le matin, il vous faudra « retourner » au village pour le prendre.

View onto Aguas Calientes

View onto Aguas Calientes

Comment rejoindre le site de Machupicchu depuis Aguas Calientes ?

Une fois à Agua Calientes, ou Machupicchu village, plusieurs options sont possibles pour monter à Machupicchu.

Caroline is driving the bus on the way up to MachuPicchu: 10$

Caroline is driving the bus on the way up to MachuPicchu: 10$

– En bus depuis le centre d’Aguas Calientes. Il vous en coutera 10$ par personne pour l’aller simple. Il faut compter une demie heure. Le site ouvre à 6 heures du matin et les premiers bus partent vers 5h20 du matin. Attention, le matin la queue est longue. Quand vous faites la queue, vous pouvez acheter votre petit déjeuner (pain et café) et même votre déjeuner si vous n’avez rien preparé. Des marchands ambulants vous y attendent de pied ferme.

– La deuxième option pour monter (et descendre) est de le faire à pied en suivant le chemin qu’Hiram Birgham aurait suivi.  Autant les bus montent en Zigzag les quelques 800 metres de deniveles depuis la rivière jusqu’au site, autant Hiram, lui, monte tout droit. Pour le grimper, comptez une bonne heure. Et une demi-heure pour la descente. Attention, certaines personnes vous affirmeront qu’elles montent en une demi-heure et descendent en 20 minutes, mais en courant pas en marchant…

Notre recommendation:

Jour 1 :Prenez l’option minibus jusqu’à Hydrolectrica, marcher jusqu’à Agua Calientes et passer une première nuit au Machupicchu village

Jour 2 : monter en bus au Machupicchu (histoire de s’économiser pour le reste de la journée) et passer toute la journée sur le site pour profiter à la fois du lever et du coucher du soleil. Passer votre seconde nuit au Machupicchu village.

Jour 3 : Après un bon petit déjeuner, partez sur les coups de 9h pour rejoindre Hydroelectrica en marchant. En arrivant, prendre un taxi pour rejoindre directement les sources d’eau chaude de Saint Theresa. (5 soles de taxi et 5 soles d’entrée aux sources. A la sortie, reprenez un taxi jusqu’au centre ville ou alors comptez une grande demi-heure pour le faire à pied. Puis sur les coups de 14h30, attendez la navette qui vous ramènera jusqu’à Cusco. Si vous faites ce planning, mettez vous d’accord avec l’agence avec qui vous avez acheté le transport.

Relaxing at Saint Theresa hot springs
Relaxing at Saint Theresa hot springs
Us at Saint Theresa hot spring, much better than the aguas calientes ones
Us at Saint Theresa hot spring, much better than the aguas calientes ones
On the way down to Cusco for the first part of the travel.. Taxi mode at the back for Caro
On the way down to Cusco for the first part of the travel.. Taxi mode at the back for Caro

Ou réserver ?

L’option de transport à 80 Soles s’achète uniquement en agence de touriste sur Cusco tandis que le billet de train peut s’acheter directement à la gare.

Nous n’avons pas parlé des différents randonnées possibles que l’on peut faire au départ de Cusco (Jungle trek et l’Inca Trek), mais vous en savez déjà assez pour commencer à planifier votre excursion jusqu’au Machupicchu. De notre côté, il ne nous reste plus qu’à le découvrir. Ce sera l’occasion d’un autre post. Si vous avez des questions ou des commentaires n’hésitez pas à nous contacter (par commentaires sur le site ou email privés)

We are finally here

We are finally here

A très bientôt,

Jacques&Caro

Our most beautiful Peruvian city: Cusco , the imperial city

June 23, 2013 · by JacquesandCaro

Here we go for a few days in Cusco. We are not sure how much time we will spend here giving that the access to MachuPicchu gets filled up quite quickly.

Overivew of Cusco since the view point. Did I tell you that Cusco has been built to represent the shape of a Puma?

Overivew of Cusco since the view point. Did I tell you that Cusco has been built to represent the shape of a Puma?

In and around Cusco, there is many things to do:

– Visiting the city (plan at least for two days)

– MachuPicchu sighting (another three days including the transport from Cusco – Train or Minivan)

– Sacred valley visit (as well, count on two to three days)

So, a total of 6 or 7 days is required to visit Cusco and around. MachuPicchu and the Sacred Valley will be touched down on different posts.

In Cusco, the main places to visit are al located in the centre of the city.

Both of us with this traditional Peruvian woman

Both of us with this traditional Peruvian woman

No need to say that this city, which has been built at 3,400m, is considered as the most beautiful city of Peru and is consequently the most touristic place of Peru.

THe old city door just next to San Francisco church

THe old city door just next to San Francisco church

La Plaza de las armas (The weapon square) is the culture centre of the city. It is as well the best example of how the spanish ran the country as soon as they arrived in 1533.

Panoramic of the plaza de las armas

Panoramic of the plaza de las armas

First, because this square was the main place were excuted the opponents to the colonial regime. Indeed, this is where Tupac Amaru, the last Inca leader got executed in 1572 along with all his familly. He was quartered, his body dismembered and his head left exposed on the plaza de las armas.

The statue of Pachacamec, the the main Inca Emperor

The statue of Pachacamec, the the main Inca Emperor

This is where as well Tupac Amaru II got exectued in 1780 after the revolt he lead againt the spanish conquistadors. The repression has been always approved by the church.

A bloody square, indeed. However it is today a beautiful square, quiet from where we can admire some of the best colonial building in Cusco.

Plaza de armas by night
Plaza de armas by night
The arcades opening onto the plaza de armas
The arcades opening onto the plaza de armas
The fountain by night
The fountain by night
Cusco Cathedral which has been built over the Inca site of Wiracocha
Cusco Cathedral which has been built over the Inca site of Wiracocha
All the houses along the plaza de las armas have been well restored
All the houses along the plaza de las armas have been well restored
Cusco Cathedral on a different angle
Cusco Cathedral on a different angle
The compania churchThe companion of Jesus church
The compania churchThe companion of Jesus church
Caroline and uniform as usual
Caroline and uniform as usual
Wind playing with the banners on the cross
Wind playing with the banners on the cross
The San Francisco Church
The San Francisco Church
Just opposite the market (on his left side) is San Peter or should we say San Pedro church
Just opposite the market (on his left side) is San Peter or should we say San Pedro church
Typical colonial door and balcony
Typical colonial door and balcony
Cusco
Cusco

Good example because all the Incas buildings (temple and other) got demolished. Their bases were then used to build catholic building such as churches, monasteries… And they finally used the Inca building stone to build the new ones.

When we visit Cusco, we sometimes go through narrow street, with not a lot of light, which probably help us imagine how was it before. Some of them have been quite well renovated, and the result is there.

Cusco narrow traditional street
Cusco narrow traditional street
Street leading to Saint Clare and Saint Peter churches
Street leading to Saint Clare and Saint Peter churches
On the way up to the mirador
On the way up to the mirador
Cusco is not a flat city
Cusco is not a flat city
Cusco streets
Cusco streets
Cusco street at night
Cusco street at night
Streets of Cusco
Streets of Cusco

We spent some time as well at Cusco Market, called San Pedro market. We love markets, and we use them to tell us how is the city. A clean and well supplied usually goes with a safe and good atmoshpere city. We use to go there quite often for breakfast and even sometimes lunch. They prepare the food made of fresh ingredients of front of you, so at least you are sure not to be sick later.

Outside of the San Pedro market facing la Plaza San Pedro (obviously)
Outside of the San Pedro market facing la Plaza San Pedro (obviously)
Typical dish you can have at the market for 2.5 soles i.e around less than 1 US$
Typical dish you can have at the market for 2.5 soles i.e around less than 1 US$
Funky bread or should I say very religious looking bread
Funky bread or should I say very religious looking bread
Our typical breakfast at the marketBreakfast at the market
Our typical breakfast at the marketBreakfast at the market
At the market, a coffee fiole.. you put a bit in your cup, add some water, and here we go
At the market, a coffee fiole.. you put a bit in your cup, add some water, and here we go
Cheese and dulce de leche
Cheese and dulce de leche
Local cheese, isn't beautiful?
Local cheese, isn’t beautiful?
Jacques at the Cheese stalls in San Pedro market
Jacques at the Cheese stalls in San Pedro market
Jacques at the best stall of the market: Olives
Jacques at the best stall of the market: Olives
And finally Jacques at the bread stall
And finally Jacques at the bread stall
Mango from Peru, the biggest and best..
Mango from Peru, the biggest and best..
Market time, fresh juice time with caroline
Market time, fresh juice time with caroline
The meat stall
The meat stall

We went up to the entrance of Saksaywaman ruins (part of the Sacred Valley) to admire the view point onto Cusco.

The plaza de las armas
The plaza de las armas
Cusco overview with in the middle the plaza of armas
Cusco overview with in the middle the plaza of armas

From there, we were able to count something like 13 churches in Cusco, sometimes just far away from each other by a few meters. This is where you realize that the conquistadors have done everything they could to change the population and turn them toward Catholisicm. But I am not sure how well they did that, as still a large portion of the population speaks Quechua. The quechua flag can be seen everywhere in Peru (as well in Bolivia) just next to the official flag.

Visiting the Museum La Casa Concha talking abtou Machupicchu
Visiting the Museum La Casa Concha talking abtou Machupicchu
Caroline pausing not with an uniform but with an historical and funny guy
Caroline pausing not with an uniform but with an historical and funny guy
Cusco town hall
Cusco town hall
Cusco facades present a lot of historical balconies or what I would call a sun room
Cusco facades present a lot of historical balconies or what I would call a sun room

We visit a few museums. We went through a great museum about MachuPicchu : La Casa Concha. I just recommend to visit it. It is a private musuem so entry is not free, And because we bought the full ticket for the sacred valley, we went through the public musem (which are not really good). Mainly the regional history museum, the popular art museum, the museum of contemporary art. Inside one of them (I don’t remember which one) you can see a paints of the last supper of Jesus with in his plate a Cuy (the cuy is a traditional peruvian dish which is a guinea-pig). Here we laugh a bit

Another way for catholicism to convert the Andinese man over it: the Cuy or guinea pig in Jesus plate…

Another way for catholicism to convert the Andinese man over it: the Cuy or guinea pig in Jesus plate…

Again a different way from the conquistador to impose their laws and views but by using the local customs. Not to add that all the religious celebrations are based on the Inca dates.. We just add Jesus or Marie instead of the local divinity and it is done. This is now (since 1533) yours.

Traditional spectacle in front of San Pedro church showing how catholicism has used the traditional inca ceremonies to impose the new religion over them.

Traditional spectacle in front of San Pedro church showing how catholicism has used the traditional inca ceremonies to impose the new religion over them.

That is it for Cusco, a lot of things to say and show but the best advice is for sure to go there.

Blog you soon,

Jacques&Caro

Notre plus belle ville Peruvienne : Cusco , la cite impériale.

June 23, 2013 · by JacquesandCaro

Nous voilà donc à Cusco pour quelques jours… Nous ne sommes pas sûr exactement combien de temps nous y resterons étant donné que l’accès au MachuPicchu est limité et se remplit assez rapidement….

Overivew of Cusco since the view point. Did I tell you that Cusco has been built to represent the shape of a Puma?

Overivew of Cusco since the view point. Did I tell you that Cusco has been built to represent the shape of a Puma?

Sur et autour de Cusco, plusieurs choses sont à faire :

– La visite de la ville (comptez au moins deux jours)

– La visite du MachuPicchu (comptez au moins deux à trois jours en incluant le transport)

– La visite de la vallée sacrée (de même, comptez au moins deux jours)

Donc au total un minimum de 6 jours est nécessaire pour visiter Cusco et ses alentours. Le MachuPicchu ainsi que la Vallée Sacrée seront décrits dans des posts séparés.

La ville de Cusco en elle-même (son centre historique) représente une grosse partie de la visite.

Both of us with this traditional Peruvian woman

Both of us with this traditional Peruvian woman

Il faut le dire.. Bâtie à 3400m d’altitude, Cusco est considéré comme la plus jolie ville du Pérou et en conséquence est la ville la plus touristique de tout le pays.

THe old city door just next to San Francisco church

THe old city door just next to San Francisco church

La Plaza de las armas (Place des armes) est le centre culture de cette ville. C’est un parfait exemple de la politique menée par les espagnols dès leur arrivée en 1533.

Panoramic of the plaza de las armas

Panoramic of the plaza de las armas

Tout d’abord parce que cette place devient le lieu principal où ont lieu les exécutions des opposants au régime colonial. En effet c’est ici que fut notamment exécuté Tupac Amaru (ainsi que toute sa famille) en 1572, le dernier chef inca. Il fut écartelé, son corps démembré et sa tête exposée sur la place publique.

The statue of Pachacamec, the the main Inca Emperor

The statue of Pachacamec, the the main Inca Emperor

C’est aussi là que Tupac Amaru II fut exécuté en 1780 après la révolte avortée qu’il mena contre les conquistadors espagnol. La répression fut sanglante et toujours approuvée par l’Eglise.

Sanguinaire cette place… Pourtant aujourd’hui c’est une place magnifique et tranquille d’ou l’on peut admirer quelques belles constructions coloniales.

Plaza de armas by night
Plaza de armas by night
The arcades opening onto the plaza de armas
The arcades opening onto the plaza de armas
The fountain by night
The fountain by night
Cusco Cathedral which has been built over the Inca site of Wiracocha
Cusco Cathedral which has been built over the Inca site of Wiracocha
All the houses along the plaza de las armas have been well restored
All the houses along the plaza de las armas have been well restored
Cusco Cathedral on a different angle
Cusco Cathedral on a different angle
The compania churchThe companion of Jesus church
The compania churchThe companion of Jesus church
Caroline and uniform as usual
Caroline and uniform as usual
Wind playing with the banners on the cross
Wind playing with the banners on the cross
The San Francisco Church
The San Francisco Church
Just opposite the market (on his left side) is San Peter or should we say San Pedro church
Just opposite the market (on his left side) is San Peter or should we say San Pedro church
Typical colonial door and balcony
Typical colonial door and balcony
Cusco
Cusco

Exemple de la politique coloniale espagnole, aussi parce que tous les édifices religieux incas (temples et autres) ont été détruits. Leur bases ont servi de fondation aux nouveaux bâtiments tels que Cathedrale de Cusco, l’Eglise de la Compagnie de Jesus. Les anciennes pierre des incas ont bien entendu été réutilisées pour construire ces nouveaux bâtiments. Rien ne se perd, rien ne se crée, tout se transforme disait Antoine-Laurent Lavoisier.

Quand on visite Cusco, on passe forcément par ses ruelles étroites, mal éclairées mais qui aident finalement à nous représenter comment était Cusco dans le temps. Certaines d’entre elles ont été réhabilitées, et le résultat est plutôt réussi.

Cusco narrow traditional street
Cusco narrow traditional street
Street leading to Saint Clare and Saint Peter churches
Street leading to Saint Clare and Saint Peter churches
On the way up to the mirador
On the way up to the mirador
Cusco is not a flat city
Cusco is not a flat city
Cusco streets
Cusco streets
Cusco street at night
Cusco street at night
Streets of Cusco
Streets of Cusco

Nous avons aussi passé un peu de temps au marché San Pedro de Cusco. Il faut dire que nous adorons les marchés. Ils vous donnent une idée précise de la ville ou vous êtes. En effet, les marches propres, bien garnis reflètent une ville sure, ou l’ambiance est plutôt bonne. Marché donc où nous venions prendre nos petits déjeuners et parfois même déjeuner.. De la nourriture fraiche et préparée devant vous pour quelques soles seulement. Pas de risque de tomber malade.

Outside of the San Pedro market facing la Plaza San Pedro (obviously)
Outside of the San Pedro market facing la Plaza San Pedro (obviously)
Typical dish you can have at the market for 2.5 soles i.e around less than 1 US$
Typical dish you can have at the market for 2.5 soles i.e around less than 1 US$
Funky bread or should I say very religious looking bread
Funky bread or should I say very religious looking bread
Our typical breakfast at the marketBreakfast at the market
Our typical breakfast at the marketBreakfast at the market
At the market, a coffee fiole.. you put a bit in your cup, add some water, and here we go
At the market, a coffee fiole.. you put a bit in your cup, add some water, and here we go
Cheese and dulce de leche
Cheese and dulce de leche
Local cheese, isn't beautiful?
Local cheese, isn’t beautiful?
Jacques at the Cheese stalls in San Pedro market
Jacques at the Cheese stalls in San Pedro market
Jacques at the best stall of the market: Olives
Jacques at the best stall of the market: Olives
And finally Jacques at the bread stall
And finally Jacques at the bread stall
Mango from Peru, the biggest and best..
Mango from Peru, the biggest and best..
Market time, fresh juice time with caroline
Market time, fresh juice time with caroline
The meat stall
The meat stall

Nous sommes montés sur les hauteurs de Cusco pour aller admirer le point de vue sur la ville… juste à l’entrée du parc des ruines de Saksaywaman (une des attractions de la vallée sacrée)

The plaza de las armas
The plaza de las armas
Cusco overview with in the middle the plaza of armas
Cusco overview with in the middle the plaza of armas

De là-haut nous avons pu dénombré plus de 13 églises dans Cusco, dont certaines sont éloignées seulement de quelques rues. Les Espagnols ont vraiment tout fait pour évangéliser les Incas, et il faut dire que le résultat n’est pas vraiment là. Certes tout le monde parle espagnol, mais une grande partie parle aussi le Quechua (langue de l’homme des Andes). Le drapeau quechua (drapeau international) trotte un peu partout comme on a pu le voir en Bolivie, des fois même à coté du drapeau officiel.

Visiting the Museum La Casa Concha talking abtou Machupicchu
Visiting the Museum La Casa Concha talking abtou Machupicchu
Caroline pausing not with an uniform but with an historical and funny guy
Caroline pausing not with an uniform but with an historical and funny guy
Cusco town hall
Cusco town hall
Cusco facades present a lot of historical balconies or what I would call a sun room
Cusco facades present a lot of historical balconies or what I would call a sun room

Nous avons faits quelques musées notamment le musée de la Casa Concha (un musée privé) dédié au MachuPicchu, ceux de l’histoire régionale, l’art populaire, l’art contemporain (qui sont tous des musées publiques et compris dans le prix du billet de la vallée sacrée) dans lequel on peut apercevoir des peinture chrétiennes du dernier repas de Jésus. Et là on rigole un peu en apercevant un Cuy (le cochon d’Inde, qui est un plat traditionnel Péruvien) dans l’assiette du Christ : la Cène…

Another way for catholicism to convert the Andinese man over it: the Cuy or guinea pig in Jesus plate…

Another way for catholicism to convert the Andinese man over it: the Cuy or guinea pig in Jesus plate…

Encore un moyen pour les Chrétiens de faciliter la transition entre les divinités Incas et le dieu unique. Aussi a noter que toutes les fêtes religieuses au Pérou utilisent les dates des fêtes religieuses incas. On y a ajoute la vierge marie ou Jésus, est le tour est joué.. Ce sont les vôtres maintenant, juste un peu différentes.

Traditional spectacle in front of San Pedro church showing how catholicism has used the traditional inca ceremonies to impose the new religion over them.

Traditional spectacle in front of San Pedro church showing how catholicism has used the traditional inca ceremonies to impose the new religion over them.

Voila c’en est tout pour Cusco, beaucoup de choses à raconter, mais le meilleur conseil pour tout voir est bien sur d’y aller.

A très bientôt,

Jacques&Caro

Welcome to Peru

June 20, 2013 · by JacquesandCaro

That’s it, we have crossed our 11th country in a bit more than 6 months… We have been through Bolivia in 3 weeks enjoying a great country, cheap, fun with a lot of new experience and encounters.

We arrived on this Mardi 30th of April in Cusco, our first Peruvian stop.

Caroline happy to be in Peru

Caroline happy to be in Peru

Our journey from Bolivia is quite simple and straight forward as you can see on the map below :

From Copacabana, we took the 12.30pm bus direct to Puno where we have decided not to stop.

From there, we bought a new ticket for Cusco leaving Puno at 4pm, so around less than an hour after arriving there.

They tell you in Copacabana that you should arrive in Cusco around 10pm… Indeed… We got there at midnighit-ish.

Take note that all the peruvian buses are equipped with a speed control system. « Perfect » is my initial réaction.. These buses should be safer is what I said to Caroline. True. The system is in fact a bell that rings everytime the speed is over 90km/hr. Everyone can hear it both the passengers and the drivers. Except that the driver spent most time driving above 90km/hr (91 to 95 to be accurate)… I let you imagine how noisy was the bus trip.. Not sure we will be able to cope with this during our month in Peru.

Passed midnight we arrived in Cusco.

Again something that you develop when you travel around the world : trusting other. Other not being your work colleague or someone you met a few times in the street, bus or train. No, this someone I talked about is someone you don’t know nothing, you don’t even know the country he is coming from (except few stuff you have read in the Lonely Planet or Wikipidia), the culture he lives around, etc…

we feel like being in Indonesia with this small taxi

we feel like being in Indonesia with this small taxi

And tonight, this someone is your taxi driver, waiting for you at passed midnight in a quite fresh night…

And around him, there is plenty of them, running around, asking you for a taxi, an hostel where you can sleep, anyting.

So we go finally with one of them as he looks good.

After withdrawing local currency (The nuevas soles), arriving at the hostel, getting in the room along with our 4 bags weighting in total 54kgs, uploading the photos on wordpress and finalizing the latest post of the blog, it is already 3am

Tomorrow morning we will be (should be) ready to go and discover Cusco, an historical town full of culture and tradition.

Will the Peruvian nicer than the Bolivian ? Wil Peru will be as exciting Boliva was ?

The answers soon.

Both of us in front of the tourism logo that we will see everywhere during our month in this country.

Both of us in front of the tourism logo that we will see everywhere during our month in this country.

Good night and blog you soon

Jacques&Caro

Bienvenue au Pérou

June 20, 2013 · by JacquesandCaro

Et voilà, notre 11eme pays traversé (or du moins en partie traversé). Nous finissons donc la Bolivie après 3 semaines plutôt intenses, riches en expérience et rencontres.

Nous arrivons donc en ce mardi 30 Avril à Cusco, notre première étape Péruvienne.

Caroline happy to be in Peru

Caroline happy to be in Peru

Notre trajet depuis la Bolivie est assez simple comme vous pouvez le voire ci-dessous.

De Copacabana, nous avons pris le bus de 12.30 pour Puno où avons decidé de ne pas nous arrêter.

De là, nous avons acheté un nouveau ticket pour Cusco en partant de Puno à 16h, soit ¾ heure après être arrivés de Copacabana.

Bon, on nous avait dit : en partant à 12h30 de Copacabana, vous arriverez vers 22h à Cusco.. Mouais.. nous sommes arrivés à minuit passé.

A noter que les bus péruviens sont équipés d’un système de contrôle de vitesse… « Parfait » dis-je à Caro. Ca devrait être bien « safe »…

Un système sonore qui alerte le conducteur ET les passagers quand le seuil des 90km/hr est dépassé.  Sauf qu’en fait le conducteur essaie de rouler autour de 90 mais la plupart du temps est plus au-dessus qu’en dessous. Je vous laisse donc imaginer l’incessant bip que nous avions dans la bus… Bon on verra si on arrivera à le supporter durant un mois..

Minuit passé et nous voilà arrivés dans Cusco, en fait dans un endroit où nous ne savons pas où nous sommes. Encore quelque chose que les voyages (pas de luxe) développent chez les globe trotters : la confiance de l’autre. Et l’autre ce n’est pas le collègue de travail, ni le gars que tu as croisé quelques fois dans le train ou le métro… c’est quelqu’un qu’on ne connaît pas du tout, d’un pays et d’une culture dont on en sait que quelques bribes lues sur Lonely Planet ou Wikipedia…

we feel like being in Indonesia with this small taxi

we feel like being in Indonesia with this small taxi

Et cet autre, il est là, à minuit passé, planté sur le quai à t’attendre à l’arrivé de ton bus…

Et ce soir-là, l’autre c’est une myriade de taxi (en fait comme à chaque fois) qui vous propose de vous déposer dans le centre ville mais aussi des accommodations plutôt économiques. Et c’est ce que nous avons fait…

Le temps d’y arriver, de retirer au distributeur des Nuevos Soles (la monnaie locale), de rentrer dans la chambre avec nos 4 sacs (à deux nous avons pour 54kg de bagage), uploader les photos et finir la mise en page du dernier article du blog, il est déjà 3h du matin…

Demain matin, nous partirons à la découverte de Cusco, une ville qui s’annonce riche den culture et tradition.

Est-ce que les péruviens seront aussi gentils et accueillants que les Boliviens ?

La réponse bientôt.

Both of us in front of the tourism logo that we will see everywhere during our month in this country.

Both of us in front of the tourism logo that we will see everywhere during our month in this country.

Bonne nuit et a demain.

Jacques&Caro

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